Beautiful Yard in the Fall
A great yard in the spring and summer begins with prep in the fall. The stress and heat of the summer can do real damage to your lawn, shrubs and trees. A little TLC in the fall will give them an added boost in the spring
Remove the leaves
A carpet of colorful autumn leaves may look nice and be fun to play in, but they're no good for the grass. They block the light and trap moisture, potentially fatal knockout punches for the unlucky turf underneath. The best thing to do is to mow your leaves. An even better alternative is to mow your leaves. If you can get them to dime size pieces they will decompose and make their way into your soil. There is a great article from the Little Falls Watershed Alliance on the benefits of mowing your leaves http://www.lfwa.org/updates/mow-your-leaves-better-environment. If there are too many leaves to mow you can blow or rake them away. Even after the trees are bare, continue raking out the corners where the wind piles leave up. If you let those leaves pile up and stay there all winter, come spring the grass under that soggy, decaying mat will be dead. If you have space in a sunny area the leaves make a great base for a compost pile. That compost can then be used in your garden to enhance the soil all year long.
Keep cutting, but to the correct height
Keep your mower handy for a while. Grass continues to grow up to the first hard frost, and so will need regular cuts to keep it at an ideal 2½- to 3-inch height. If you let it get too long, it will mat and be vulnerable to fungi like snow mold. Cutting grass too short is just as bad, because it curtails the root system—root depth is proportional to cutting height—and impedes the lawn's ability to withstand winter cold and dryness. Regular mowing also gets rid of those pesky leaves, chopping them up and leaving behind a soil-enhancing mulch.
Continue watering
While it's true that there's more rain, more dew, and less evaporation in the fall, it may not be enough to keep the grass roots well hydrated and healthy going into the winter. If your lawn isn't getting at least an inch of water a week then it’s best to water until the end of October.
Loosen the soil
Aeration doesn’t necessarily need to be done every year. Once every couple of year with help prevent the soil from becoming compacted and covered with thatch which prevents water from reaching the soil. A core aerator corrects both problems by punching holes through that thatch and pulling up plugs of soil. It is best to aerate before fertilizing which will allow the fertilizer to get down close to the roots.
Fertilize
Just as grass roots need water to last the winter, they also benefit from a shot of the plant sugars that protect roots from freezing and give the entire plant the energy to bounce back in the spring. A late-fall application of a slow-release granular 24-0-10 fertilizer is best . The numbers indicate the percentage by weight of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, respectively. Potassium is also important at this time because it aids in root growth, disease protection, drought tolerance, and cold resistance. (A soil test can tell you how much of each nutrient your lawn actually needs.) Be sure to stay at least 5-10 feet away from waterways. There are both chemical and organic fertilizers available at most hardware stores.
Spread seed
Fall is the best time to overseed because the ground is still warm, moisture is more plentiful, nights are cool, and the sun is not as hot during the day. To be effective seed will need to be in full contact with the soil, be kept moist until they germinate, and be well enough established before it gets too cold. It is best to clean up the leaves and thatch before seeding to allow the seed to get down to the soil and get established effectively.
Plant bulbs and transplant perennials
Many of the spring blooming bulbs are perennial and will multiply over the years. Tulips don’t do well year after year so you will need to plant new ones every year or every other year. Spring blooming tubers like peonies, lilies and Iris are best planted in the fall about six weeks before the ground freezes. This is also the best time to move spring blooming plants. Be sure to water well until the ground freezes to give your plants a good, strong start. Looking for a way to expand your plants without breaking the bank? Find other neighbors who are gardeners and share plants.
Clean Up Your Lawnmower and Other Yard Tools
Your lawnmower and other yard tools are probably dirty after a spring and summer of use. Don’t let that dirt and grime sit around all winter. Instead, clean and tune up these tools so they will be ready for the next heavy work season. It’s also easier to have repairs done now rather than in the spring when everyone is rushing to have their equipment repaired. I have the name of a repair company that comes to your home on my preferred vendor list.
Trim Problem Bushes and Trees
The last thing you want are branches to hit your house during a wind or snowstorm. Now is the time to inspect nearby trees and shrubs, and cut any low-hanging or dying branches before they can do damage. Don’t go crazy, though. Trimming promotes new growth, so wait until your bushes and trees are truly dormant (after winter, early spring) to do your annual pruning.